You must use really well-flavoured home-made chicken stock for this. If you don't, it just doesn't work. Serve in fairly small portions, as the soup is rich.
FOR THE SOUP:
- 100g smoked trout
- 25g butter
- 2 onions, very finely chopped
- 2 tablespoons plain flour
- 600ml good, strongly flavoured, home-made chicken stock
- 250ml Riesling
- 3 egg yolks
- 200ml double cream
- 15g chives, chopped
- Freshly ground nutmeg
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE FRITTATEN:
- 125ml milk
- 1 egg
- 50g plain flour
- 15g unsalted butter, for frying
- A few small salad leaves
- Flake the trout into fairly large chunks and set aside.
- Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and slowly sauté the onions. Once they soften, add about 3 tablespoons of water and cover the pan. Turn the heat down very low and gently cook until they are completely soft but not at all brown.
- Stir in the flour and cook for about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and slowly add the stock, stirring as you go. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes.
- Meanwhile, make the frittaten. Mix together the milk and egg. Put the flour in a bowl and gradually add the liquid, whisking continuously. Season with salt. Melt a little knob of the butter in a non-stick saucepan and add a small ladleful of the butter (enough to make a small pancake). Cook this on both sides until set and golden brown. Use the remaining batter and butter in the same way. Keep warm. This makes slightly more than you need.
- Add the wine to the soup and bring to the boil again, then turn down to a simmer. In a jug, stir the egg yolks until they are broken, then add the cream and whisk for 30 seconds or so. Add a small ladleful of the warm soup and mix well, then add this mixture back to the soup along with the chives and the nutmeg. Heat the soup but don't let it boil, stirring continually, with a wooden spoon.
- Take off the heat and check the seasoning. Roll up the warm pancakes and cut them into strips (about the thickness of tagliatelle). Ladle the soup into 6 small bowls and top with the frittaten, some flaked trout and a few little leaves.
To drink: Not everyone drinks wine with soup but, for those who do, a dry Riesling is the obvious choice for this soup - ideally an Austrian Riesling, but this Australian is a good alternative: Barossa Cross Riesling 2009, £7.99, . Wine details correct at original magazine publication date.
From the March 2012 issue of House & Garden. Recipe by Diana Henry; photograph by Martin Poole; food preparation & styling by Aya Nishimura; wine recommendations by Joanna Simon; table styling by Alexander Breeze.